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Dyeing and Printing

Textiles may be dyed in a number of ways: The fabrics can be dyed after weaving or knitting is completed (piece-dyed), the loose fibers can be dyed in a vat (stock-dyed), or the yarn or filament can be dyed before weaving or knitting is begun (yarn-dyed). Synthetic yarns can also be precolored by incorporating color pigments in the spinning solution before the filaments are extruded through the spinneret (solution- or dope-dyed).
The principal method of printing designs on textiles is intaglio roller printing. In this process, the design is etched on copper rolls, a separate roll for each color in the design, the depressions are filled with printing paste, and the fabric then passes through the rolls. Another method of printing fabrics is relief roller printing. In this process, the design is raised away from the surface of the roll, and the raised portions are covered with ink. This is also called surface, peg, block, or kiss printing. Screen printing is accomplished with a design stenciled on a flat or roller screen. The screen is placed over the fabric and color is applied by squeegeeing it through the openings in the stencil. Hand-screen printing is being replaced by automatic machines.


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