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Textiles
may be dyed in a number of ways: The fabrics can be dyed after
weaving or knitting is completed (piece-dyed), the loose fibers
can be dyed in a vat (stock-dyed), or the yarn or filament
can be dyed before weaving or knitting is begun (yarn-dyed).
Synthetic yarns can also be precolored by incorporating color
pigments in the spinning solution before the filaments are
extruded through the spinneret (solution- or dope-dyed).
The principal method of printing designs on textiles is intaglio
roller printing. In this process, the design is etched on
copper rolls, a separate roll for each color in the design,
the depressions are filled with printing paste, and the fabric
then passes through the rolls. Another method of printing
fabrics is relief roller printing. In this process, the design
is raised away from the surface of the roll, and the raised
portions are covered with ink. This is also called surface,
peg, block, or kiss printing. Screen printing is accomplished
with a design stenciled on a flat or roller screen. The screen
is placed over the fabric and color is applied by squeegeeing
it through the openings in the stencil. Hand-screen printing
is being replaced by automatic machines.
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