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A
variety of peoples with different styles of clothing inhabited
North, Central, and South America before Europeans arrived
beginning in the late 1400s. In the northern Arctic regions,
the Inuit (Eskimos) and Aleut peoples wore fur parkas and
trousers. The clothing of nomadic hunting societies farther
south was made of animal skins. Men in some societies wore
little more than a loincloth and leather leggings. Both men
and women wore one-piece robes, generally made of animal skin,
with an opening for the head. Decoration on articles of clothing
and jewelry might consist of featherwork and quillwork (decoration
made with porcupine quills); body paint was also used. After
the Europeans introduced colored glass beads to the Americas,
these, too, were applied to jewelry and to moccasins (soft
slippers) and other apparel of animal hides.
After Spanish conquerors introduced sheep to the Americas
in the 16th century, the indigenous peoples of the American
Southwest became the first of the native cultures to weave
sheep's wool into cloth. Earlier, the peoples of this region
and elsewhere had made cloth from plant fibers and bark. The
Native Americans also adopted vests, woven cloaks, and other
items of European clothing.
The indigenous peoples of Central and South America had an
elaborate clothing culture before European conquest in the
16th century. Clothing was woven from cotton and other fibers,
such as palm leaves, throughout the Aztec, Maya, and Inca
empires. Typical garments worn in preconquest Central America
included the loincloth, hip-cloth (which was longer than a
loincloth), tunic, and cape for men, and the wrapped skirt,
untailored blouse, and poncho (a blanketlike cloak, with a
hole for the head) for women. Men also wore quilted armor
and ceremonial warrior costumes. Jewelry, headdresses, and
featherwork were important symbols of status.
After the European colonization, European clothing replaced,
augmented, and modified indigenous styles. The Spanish mantilla
(a lightweight lace or silk scarf worn over the head and shoulders),
long gathered skirt, and tailored blouse became part of women's
dress. The sombrero (a large straw or felt hat with a wide
brim and a high crown), jacket, and trousers became part of
men's attire. Spain's trans-Pacific trade between its colonies
in Acapulco, Mexico, and Manila, Philippines, introduced some
Chinese and Philippine motifs and embroidery styles into Mexican
and Central American women's clothing. When the French navy
visited Guatemala in the 19th century, a particular style
of straight-legged, navy blue sailors' trousers became incorporated
into local dress. By the late 20th century, commercially woven
cloth and synthetic dyes had largely replaced handwoven cloth
and vegetable dyes. Nevertheless, many ancient design motifs
with symbolic significance, such as serpents and rainbows,
still persist.
Similar changes occurred in the Andes Mountains of South America
when the Spanish conquered the Inca Empire in the early 16th
century. Although European styles replaced most traditional
Inca clothing, some ancient Andean woven textiles have survived
and are now in museum collections. These textiles were primarily
made of cotton, although llama, alpaca, and vicuña
wools were also used. Weaving materials were often colored
with mineral and vegetable dyes. Along with patterns and images
woven into the fabric, painting, stamping, embroidering, and
appliqué were used to create textile designs. Despite
European influence, traditional weaving remains an important
activity among women of indigenous Andean societies today.
Weaving and clothing are still used to communicate regional
identity and marital status. In addition, many Andean women
now produce hand-knitted sweaters and other garments for commercial
markets.
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